Thursday, 26 January 2017

Meeting a Green Warrior

Finding people devoted to some worthy cause for the benefit of the society at large without expecting rewards or personal gains is rare indeed these days. But nonetheless such people exist. And I am glad to introduce such a person who I would call a green warrior devoted to the cause of wildlife conservation and showing people how to live harmoniously with the wild animals around them without any conflicts.




Meet Mr Anurag Kumar. Tall, humble and very soft spoken Anurag is in his forties. Despite being a government employee he finds time for what he loves most ; working for and spreading the word of nature and wildlife conservation. Operating from his modest tenement in the village of Bansinagar, on the periphery of the Dudhwa National Park which is just four kms away, he teaches wildlife conservation to village children and takes them, from time to time, on rescue walks around the village and along the Mailani- Gonda meter gauge railway line which passes close to his tenement at about twenty meters away. Many creatures, during the course of such walks, especially of the crawling type, have been saved from the impending death under the rolling  wheels of the passing trains that ply on this rail route.




I came to know Anurag a year ago just by chance. One early morning while driving to Kishenpur Wildlife Sanctuary from Dudhwa, where I was on a safari, I saw a pair of turtles crawling on the narrow public road at about five hundred meters away from the gate. I asked the driver to stop and  pick up and release them across the jungle fire line on the opposite side of the road. This started a small conversation between us when I asked the driver why the forest staff didn't patrol the park adjacent road area just to take care of such cases. Driver's reply was negative but he did tell me about Anurag saying that at some distance away in the village of Bansinagar there lived a gentleman, a wildlife enthusiast, engaged in such kind of work. After few minutes we drove past the village located on the road side about four kms away from Dudhwa National Park.




I met Anurag in the last week of November 2016 at his residence in Bansinagar where he had bought half an acre land and built  his tenement thereupon some ten years ago. Though he was interested in wildlife since childhood, it was a chance sighting of a tiger and what transpired thereafter that inspired him to work for wildlife conservation. The spark came from Anurag's Dudhwa visit where, up at the Sonaripur watch tower, he heard a tiger growling  hidden in the nearby bushes. He wished hard for a sighting but the tiger didn't oblige.






While driving back to Lakhimpur after the safari he met with a tiger head on in  broad day light  around 11.30 am on the narrow public road with a crowd of passers by stopped and transfixed watching the feline from both ends of the road. The tiger stayed in the road for about 4 -5 minutes and then crossed over disappearing in to the adjoining sugar cane fields.




Anurag was so enchanted with the sighting that he stopped at the toll tax post, which used to be there during those days near Bansinagar village, and started enquiring about  tigers and other wildlife around Dudhwa National Park. His queries went largely unreplied but for a man, incidentally from Bansinager village only, who took him to village and told him whatever he could. And while departing the host commented casually that unlike the people who visited the park, in an obvious reference to Dudhwa, for wildlife sightings he enjoyed such scenes at home as there was lot of wildlife around his village itself. That comment proved to be deciding for Anurag for he bought land there  just two months after.




Villagers were very suspicious of the people coming from outside found Anurag and so he thought of building a small two room house on the purchased land and spend his free time there as much as he could afford. Thus over the years he became a "Bansinagarian".




Anurag hopes village children to be the future champions of nature and wildlife conservation. He finds them very open minded and ready to learn new things unlike the village elders who, as per him, are less amenable to suggestions and guided more by their stored experiences, good or bad. In the course of time he appointed a lady teacher to teach children about nature conservation as this subject was nowhere in the curriculum of the local schools where the village children go for their education. I was pleasantly surprised at the subject knowledge the children had and Anurag was quick to explain that since all of them assisted their families at the farm fields some time or the other they knew a lot about wildlife. As the sugar cane is the main crop of the area, the sugar cane fields have become home to a variety of wild animals including tigers and leopards that prey upon wild boars, many species of herbivores and Rhesus monkeys that destroy the sugar cane crop. So the big cats are welcome here.
A green class in progress
                                                               Anurag at his tenement




Anurag told me about a male tiger who, he says, is a regular visitor to the village. Almost every second evening the feline is said to enter the village from the railway line side.
                                           Village pathway from railway line end. The Peepal
                                              tree is on the left.




Walking on the brick soled pathway to the village it stops and sits under the grand old Peepal tree( Ficus religiosa) which is just at the entrance of the walkway to Anurag's tenement. The tiger, being a regular  for quite some time, has come to recognise the sounds of mobile ringtones and music which permeates around from the transistor radios in the village. I was speechless to hear that.




My car, parked on the pathway to Anurag's tenement, had attracted notice of villagers for they were anxious to find about an outsider's presence in the village. Exhibiting a deer like curiosity some had gathered around listening to my conservation with Anurag very attentively. Under the circumstances their impromptu participation in the conversation was something that wasn't unexpected when  one from them opined that he was reconciled to the tiger's presence in the village and that the animal had so far never harmed anyone in the area, not even the village cattle. "Öh, don't you know the reason behind" interjected the other "that it was all due to the mercy and blessings of the 'Bramrakchhas Baba' who lived in the Peepal tree. The tiger is a baba devotee and that is why it comes there regularly. And you must  know also that it stands warned from Baba not to harm any living sole in the village be it a man or animal". Others kept silent and nodded in agreement to that very authoritative sounding statement. Anyway whatever may be the truth ,  villagers belief  in 'Baramrakchhas Baba' is tremendous . Every year in the month of October a village fair is held wherein population from the surrounding villages also participate in worshipping and propitiating the tree ensconced spirit.




Anurag took me on a guided tour around the village. We walked to the railway line and from there turned to left. It was decided that we shall go up to Nakahuwa rail bridge about 700 meters away and then cross over the railway line to descend on the other side in order to walk back to village.




Bansinagr village fields lay on both sides of the railway line and those on to our right  seemed to merge almost with the forest line of Dudhwa National Park. The sugar cane crop had matured and harvesting was to start soon when chances of sudden encounter with tigers would increase. As the tall sugar cane crop provides an excellent cover, tigers,  especially the tigresses, like to rear their cubs in the sugar cane fields. The abundance of prey  and many perennial water holes around, make the area a preferred sanctuary for tigers as they can live there for months together totally undisturbed and away from human interference and sight.
Fields merging with forest. Dudhwa tree silhouettes on horizon.
                          
                                         
  We reached the Nakahuwa river rail bridge after a brief twenty minutes walk. Like the river Suheli in the vicinity and all other rivers of the terai region, Nakahuwa is also home to Crocodiles or the  'Magar'as the amphibian is called locally. I saw many of them in the river and on the banks basking in the sunlight.

Anurag at the bridge
   
  
  Nakahuwa crocodiles

We crossed the railway line and  descended down to the other side of the village fields. Anurag cautioned me to walk very carefully and only in the middle of the narrow path lest some tiger or leopard hidden in  the sugar cane fields touching both  sides of the pathway takes a swipe at me. My adrenaline levels shot up and I did find tiger pug marks on the dusty pathway leading forward towards the village." Is tiger also walking to village with us"  I couldn't resist asking Anurag. A few steps ahead  we came across a troop of macaques busy enjoying a sweet  party.


Anurag was conferred the prestigious "Green Teacher Award "instituted by Sanctuary Asia, a prominent wildlife journal, in the year 2015 for his pioneering work. Mr Shyam Benegal, the famous Indian film director and screenwriter, presented the award at a glittering function held at Mumbai


.
PS: You can get my book 'The Vanishing Stripes" now at discounted price from Gumroad.com.
Looking forward to your support.

                                               





Saturday, 10 December 2016

Pench Tiger Reserve

It was for quite sometime that I was planning a trip to the Pench Tiger Reserve in the Seoni district of M.P. India. Finally I booked my safaris in the last week of November 2016 and landed at Nagpur, the nearest airport . Pench from there is  about 97 kms away. It takes about  ninety minutes time  to reach there by car.



Pench is quite historical . You find its mention  in the Ain-e-Akbari of Abul Fazl . But it was late Rudyard Kipling whose 'Jungle Book' gave it the real name and  fame. The 'Jungle Book' incorporates its setting and topography from Robert Strendale's books 'Seonee' and the "Denizens of the Jungle'. And  "Mowgli", the fascinating hero of  Kipling's 'Jungle Book', portrays the wolf child who was caught by Lieut. Moor in the jungles of Seoni in the year 1831 near the village of Sant Vavadi located just ten kilometres away from Seoni and about whom William Sleeman wrote in his book  'The Journey Through the Kingdom of Oude". It is believed that Rudyard Kipling had visited Pench  while he was in the service of erstwhile state of Dewas.



Pench Tiger Reserve derives its name from the river 'Pench' which flows through the reserve from north to south dividing it in two equal parts and in two revenue districts that is Seoni and Chindwara respectively. Standing on  the Mahadev Ghat side you are in the geographical limits of Seoni while the other bank on the opposite side falls in the district of Chindwara.
 

Pench Tiger Reserve was upgraded to 'National Park' in the year 1983. It comprises an area of 758 sq km .

Dense,dark and deep that is how I will describe the Pench forest at this time of the year. Right from entering the Turia gate,  the forest on both sides of the jungle road captivates you with it beauty. Its teak tress are simply magnificent . Straight and tall reaching to about 100 feet in height ! Its two tourist zones called popularly as route 1 and route 2 take you around the forest. Route 1, in comparison to route 2, is  quite hilly and preferred by the tourists for tiger and leopard
 sightings. However both the routes are rich in their natural beauty.


Pench hosts a variety of wildlife, flora and fauna. Tiger, Leopard , Indian Bison. Jackal, Blue Bull , Spotted Deer , Sloth Bear, Black faced Langur, Wild Boar and Sambhar Deer are some of the wild animals found here. The interesting animal character 'Tabaqui'- the Jackal of 'The Jungle Book' has a good population here and so is of 'Bagheera'- the Leopard. But I didn't see any wolf . Among the birds you find Parakeets, Crested Serpent Eagles, Crested Hawk Eagles, Owls, Green Bee Eaters , Blue Jay's, Peacocks. Jungle Fowls , Drongo and many water Birds.





 My keenness to sight the big cats of Pench was successful on my last safari  almost around the closing  hours. While coming back I met a jeep on the way which informed that the 'Raiyakassa' , the famous male tiger of Pench Tiger Reserve, was still at the banks of 'Beeja Matta' waterhole. My driver reversed and speeded back and as luck would have it I got the feline walking on the bank of the water hole . It scat marked its territory  and then descended down in  the waterhole area. The daylight was almost gone and darkness has started setting in. However I jacked up the ISO setting and got some shots just for the record.

    Pench Tiger Reserve is beautiful indeed. I will visit again in May 2017.









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Tuesday, 17 May 2016

Some Tips for Photographing Wildlife in India

With its more than 500 wildlife sanctuaries and 48 tiger reserves spread all over the country, India offers ample opportunities to photograph its amazing flora and fauna. Incidentally India is home to the famous Royal Bengal Tiger of which about 1750 roam in the Indian wilds  as on today : the largest number of tigers living in the wild  the world over. India is home to other big cats also like the Asiatic Lion and the Leopard. The only exception is the Cheetah which went extinct from India somewhere around late 1800's.


Apart from the big cats India is home to a variety of herbivores : the deer and antelopes , wild elephants, the most endangered one horned Rhino of which only 3000 are left live in the wild, the Sloth Bear and the Dhole or the Indian Wild Dog. The avian species are also numerous roughly more than 500 native and many migratory which visit during October to March every year.




These tips are general in nature and describe my first hand experience of photographing wildlife in the wildlife reserves of  the north ( Dudhwa National Park, Katarnia Ghat  and Kishenpur Wildlife Sanctuaries) and central India. ( Bandhavgarh , Kanha, and Tadoba Tiger Reserves)




Best Time and Places: I find mid February to March end as the best time for visiting wild life parks of India. The weather around this time is very pleasant and with the onset of spring season the jungles are in their most beautiful phase. However for tiger photography I would suggest April and May when the day time heat reaches to its extreme and thus increasing chances of sighting tigers around waterholes to the maximum.


Corbett , Dudhwa and Manas in the north and northeast India, Bandhavgarh, Kanha, and Tadoba in the central India and Ranthambhore in the west India are some of the  best places for wildlife photography. In southern India one may like to visit Bandipur, Nagarhole and Periyar .




Equipment : This needs no detailing as I think every wild life photographer knows already about it.
In this age of digital photography some very good systems are on the offer by the well known photo equipment makers like Nikon, Canon and Sony. One may choose as per his personal liking and budget. Being a Canon aficionado I use  6D and 5D Mark III bodies with EF 300 mm F/2.8 L II prime and a 70-300 mm  f /4-5.6 L zoom lens. However I must emphasize on having the right kind of equipment, the camera body and glass, for this genre of photography. Birders need at least a lens of 500 mm focal length and a camera body having fast focus acquisition, tracking and burst shutter capabilities.




Know the basics of wildlife behaviour: Like the ISO, Aperture and shutter speed being the triumvirate of any photography, the right photo equipment, knowledge of wildlife behaviour and patience make the three main pillars of successful wild life photography.


I will briefly share my experience :




Birds: As a general rule the smaller the bird the more agile and unstable it is like the GBE's, Pittas, Finches and the Orioles. The reverse is true of big birds like Raptors , Owls and Cranes . However all


migratory birds are wary of humans and maintain a very safe distance preferring the middle of the water body.


Deer and Antelopes: They also like to maintain a safe distance from humans. But these are very curious animals. So when photographing them stop in your place and do not chase. And by all probabilities their curios nature will make them to stop at a safe distance and look back at you. That should be your moment to click.






Tiger and Leopard : Tigers are very stable while resting and that gives ample time to photograph them.


However  a tiger walking on or crossing a jungle road requires some understanding of the feline behaviour. Tigers are supremely confident of themselves  and seldom glance to their right or left while walking but when changing the track or crossing a jungle road they do , for once, look back or glance to the side where any object may be. That should be the moment of click. That is how I got a good shot of the famous and equally shy Mahahman tigress of Bandhavgarh in 2015.


Leopards are most elusive. It is just a matter of chance that you may get them walking on the jungle road at comfortable distances for photography.








Dholes or Indian Wild Dogs: They do not fear humans. So its easy to photograph them.




:


Sloth Bear: During summer season , in early mornings ,  you may find him at close distances. But take care and be very careful of this most unpredictable beast in the wild.




Wild Boar: Very intelligent and most unstable. They tend to run away the moment they see you. However if you spot them standing then do not pick up or point your camera in a sudden motion or hurriedly. The key is to remain motionless and let the animal indulge in its activity , An then to pick up your camera slowly and click.











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Monday, 9 May 2016

Witnessing a Live Hunt

As a wildlife photographer I visit India's prime tiger lands like Bandhavgarh, Kanha, Dudhwa and Tadoba regularly . Though all of them are fantastic in their very own individual ways, I am a bit partial to Bandhavgarh and Tadoba . And that is perhaps because I have been visiting Bandhavgarh from 1992 and that Tadoba has not disappointed me ever in the last six years. I have been fortunate to see and photograph almost all famous felines of Tadoba during this period and have written about one of its tigresses, the P-2, in my earlier blogs and who I regard as one of the most iconic surviving big cats of India today .  Incidentally this incident, which can be said to be a training hunt, is also about her.


I was in Tadoba last month from 19th to 24th to photograph P-2's three ten months old cubs. They were quite small when I saw them last in December 2015.







On 20th April I was on a morning safari at Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve and parked at the southern end of the Panderpavni waterhole #1 where tigress P-2 happened to be sitting just opposite at the far end east bank of the drying lake with her three ten months old cubs. It was early morning but the April heat was oppressive. The lake was almost dry but for some water at the middle. After sometime the feline family started walking towards the lake and dashed in to waters to cool off. The cubs started swimming and frolicking. That went on for about 15-20 minutes when the cubs came out of the water chasing each other. The tigress glanced at them and then, slowly, she also came out of the water and sat down at the bank looking across the lake with her head held high. That was undoubtedly a stately stance and a classic  Royal Bengal Tiger pose. The shutterbugs went ga- ga and started sounding the rapid fire burst of their cameras. And then the tigress got up and started walking in the direction of the southern end where I was parked. But her demeanour was  changed. From her body language she looked very alert . She was now crouching and keeping her neck outstretched as if on the trail of some prey.



On the southern end, where I was parked, was a Dhak tree about some sixty feet away at 11Ó'clock position. Sitting under the shade of that tree and obscured by the surrounding tall dry jungle grass was a full grown ruminating Gaur or Indian Bison. But nobody saw the Gaur till the tigress came up walking all the way from the opposite side of the lake and made a lightening like charge in the grass at the unsuspecting gaur. That was quite natural also. You do not look here and there when a tiger comes walking towards you. You get mesmerized.


The charge was fast, precise and ferocious. In one swift stroke the tigress hocked the left hind leg of the gaur. The huge bovine could not react or get up. It was immobilised in its place and sitting helplessly there on the ground started baying painfully.


The tigress then gave out a faint growl. That was her call to the cubs to come over . The cubs arrived there in no time and started biting and pawing the live prey. The mother tigress sat nearby watching the cubs practicing their hunting skills from a close distance. From time to time she walked to the cubs to reassure them and help overcome their nervousness . She seemed to be saying " Children go on. You are doing good, And don't fear . Look I am here with you".




The poor gaur was in great agony as the cubs were biting him to death very slowly. It was very natural also. The ten months old tiger cubs neither have proper killing techniques nor the physical proportions, especially the canines, to take on big animals. 

It was just a chance that I happened to be at the right place at he right time and witness  just once in the life time like event. Now I love Tadoba even more .







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Sunday, 2 August 2015

Tadoba - Andhari Tiger Reserve

Tadoba -Andhari Tiger Reserve, often called TATR, is located in the Chandrapur district of Maharashtra, India . It gets its first part of the  name from the Gond tribal God "Taru " while the second part is after  river "Andhari" which flows through the Reserve. It is located at about 47 km from Chandrapur and 120 km for Nagpur which  also happens to be the nearest airport city . There  are two lakes, called Telia and Tadoba,  inside the reserve and which, besides adding to the natural beauty of TATR,  are home to many  marsh crocodiles and numerous seasonal migratory birds . Entry to the Reserve can be had from the four gates namely Moharli, Kolara, Navegaon and Pangdi. The last one is the buffer area entry gate at about seventy km away from Kolara gate.

 In the past the 625 sq km TATR was part of the  territory ruled by Gond kings. . Remnants of the period can still be seen in many 12 foot or so  high masonry pillars which are found on Moharli- Khatoda road. Guides tell that the pillars were used for navigational purposes by the armies of the Gond rulers.

TATR is most famous for its tigers. It is said to be the most high tiger  density reserve of India having about seventy five tigers at present . That includes the buffer zone tigers also.

I  spend about a week each year at Tadoba and it is my personal experience that it doesn't disappoint you when it comes to tiger sightings. Enter from the Kolara gate and in all probabilities you will fined the most famous tigresses of Tadoba , the P-1 and P-2 near Jamni or on the road leading to Tadoba lake. The P-1 has now two sub-adult cubs .

If lucky you may also see one of the most famous male tigers of Tadoba, the mighty Gabbar at the Panderpavni pond. The good news is that Gabbar has now fully recovered from the injuries sustained while fighting a rival recently. The other famous male tigers are O'khan, Shiva Ji and the Wagdoh aka the "Scar Face". While Wagdoh can be seen in the buffer zone, the O'khan and Shiva Ji have not been sighted for quite sometime.Rumors say that they have been poached or gone to China

                                                          The P-1
                                                       The P-2

                                                      Gabbar
Apart from Tigers, TATR has many other wild animals like , Leopards, Sloth Bear, the Asian Wild Dog or Dhole, Gaur and Grey Langur and many species of Deer. Among the avian you find Green Bee Eaters, Crested Serpent Eagle, Fish Owls , Honey Buzzards and Bush Quails. The famous Golden Orb Spiders are also found here.
                                            A Tadoba Leopard
                                         Sloth Bear at Tadoba Buffer Zone
                                         A Dhole pair resting after a successful hunt
                                          The Gaur or Indian Bison
                                         A mother Sambhar Deer with her Fawn

                                          A Langur troop at the Panchdhara stream.
                                               The Golden Orb Spider
Tadoba like all other tiger reserves of the country has its own problems. Poaching is one. It loses 2-3 tigers every year to poachers. But compared to many others it is better managed and the forest staff here are doing their best to curb poaching. Tadoba has been successful relocating the villages form its core and buffer areas. The last village to be relocated was Jamni which now has become the abode of P-1 and her two sub adult cubs. Enter from the Kolara gate and just after six km as you reach the  first right road turn , tiger sighting area starts. Last year I found the P-1 lying there bang on the mid of the road.

Another interesting fact worth mentioning . The village Jamni was a Gond majority village and the Gond tribal of that area venerated tiger along with their "Kul Devta" or the family God called "Badadev" which they housed high on the Mahuwa (Madhuca longifola) tree branches.
                                                   Badadev on the Mahuwa tree
   


                                         





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Sunday, 26 April 2015

Bandhavgarh National Park


                                          

                                         The reclining Lord Vishnu , Bandhavgarh

Big, beautiful, mystical and spiritual . These words come to mind when I think of Bandhavgarh . It is really so. One needs to explore and experience it.
I visit Bandhavgarh regularly  every year for four-five days. This is continuing since 1992. However the face of today's Bandahavgarh  is totally changed. It is now full of tourist resorts around Tala gate. Far way back in 1992 the only tourist resort that used to be was the hunting lodge of Maharaja of Rewa near the Tala gate  run and managed by a gentleman from Nepal. The other and perhaps the first  one was coming up just outside the southern boundary of Tala zone . It was the venture of  Mr. Sankhla , the famous expert on tigers. Now there are many, at least thirty of them . But the tourist traffic has also increased in a similar fashion.
Bandhavgarh is located in Umaria district of Madhya Pradesh , India . The nearest airport is Jabalpur ( 255 kms) . There are train connections to Delhi from Katni and Umaria railway stations.
The place owes its name to the ancient, said to be two thousand years old , fort sitting on the hill top in the Tala zone. There are many caves  in the vicinity.  An ancient temple is  also there . But the old Pujari who used to take care of the temple is no more now. He died three years ago. It is also said that Kabir, the famous mystic  poet saint of  India, had lived here for sometime . His followers known as "Kabirpanthis" have their" Ashram " near the Tala gate. They congregate there every year in the month of January and visit the cave inside the park where Kabir is said to have lived   in the past.
Bandhavgarh achieved the status of national park in the year 1968. Traditionally it has been a  tiger land. The first albino or white tiger was caught here only in the year 1951. This  erstwhile hunting ground of Rewa royals is now a world famous protected home of Indian tigers spread over an area of about 695 square kilometers. Besides tigers it houses a rich flora and fauna ; about 38 species of mammals , 250 species of birds including the highly endangered species of Vultures and many plants and flowers which so far have not been found or seen anywhere else like the Yellow Butea Monosperma (Palash) , the Yellow Silk  Cotton Flower and the most beautiful and rare Papad Flower tree.

                                          The Yellow Butea Monosperma
                                           The Papad Flower Tree
                                          The Yellow Silk Cotton Flower Tree.
 

Birders who want to photograph magnificent raptors like Crested Serpent Eagles and White Eyed Buzzards or colorful Indian Rollers , Pittas and Peacocks may find Bandhavgarh a very suitable place for  photography.
                                        



I usually visit this place in the last week of March / the first week of April because that is the time when Bandhavgarh happens to be at the zenith of its natural beauty and grandeur. The roadsides leading to Tala gate and also inside  the Tala gate you will find Butea Monosperma (Palash) trees, on the left hand side, laden with brilliant vermillion flowers while on the right hand side Shorea Robusta trees (Sal ) decked with soft green new leaves and pale white color tiny scented flowers. Stop there for a minute , inhale the fragrance of Sal flowers, glance and try to internalize the natural beauty surrounding you and I am sure you will feel mesmerized.
                                                    Butea Monosperma


Bandhavgarh is world famous for tigers. Once it held the honor of being the most populous and high tiger density reserve. It has the credit of being home to some very famous tigers like Sita and Kankati tigresses and males like Charger  and  B-1 . Another very famous  living Bandhavgarh  tiger is Bamera , a male aged around seven years. Nowadays he  appears to have been driven out of his Tala zone territory and often seen in the roadside grass glades  from Magdi to Tala.
                           A Bandhavgarh Tigress : One of Rajbehra Litters.
                            The Patiya Tigress. She has three 9 months old Cubs presently.
                                          Patiya Tigress's male cub.
Despite of many good things Bandhavgarh, like any other place , has its own problems. The first is of Leadership and quality of management. The park has seen 3 Park Directors in the last four years. This quick turnover now reflects the way wildlife and tourism are being managed here nowadays. However I do not hold the incumbents 100% responsible for this because traditionally they lack knowledge and skills needed for good wildlife and tourism management. The incumbents , by their training and orientation , are largely foresters;   good at forestry but poor at wildlife and tourism management . The Government must  realize that  the Forestry and wildlife and tourism management are not one and the same thing . They are  two different subjects needing  separate set of skills for each. It will be good if the Government starts imparting them knowledge and skills for tourism and wildlife management.
The second issue pertains to the poaching  of tigers which unfortunately continues unabated. Every year 2-3 tigers are poached from this park. Some of the  famous Bandhavgarh tigers like Sita, BT-2 and B-3 have fallen prey to  poachers. The  BT-2 , a radio-collared tigress , was poached last year from the Khitauli zone. This year a nine months old male cub of Banbehi tigress was snared and killed in the last week of March at a farm house located close to the park's buffer area. Some of the tigers are missing like the Mahaman female who had 3 sub-adult cubs. Till last year she was seen in the Magdi zone . But she has not been sighted so far anywhere this season. Park authorities give a standard reply that she has moved to some buffer zone. But to which buffer zone ? They do not know about it. Locals say that she had gone to China !
 Having failed to check poaching , the park authorities  now have adopted a silent but noticeable kind of anti- tourist attitude. This reflects squarely from their actions like sending beat guards for patrolling on tourist - open routes very early in the morning which incidentally happens to be the time for tiger's morning stroll  and when  tiger can be seen  walking on the  jungle path. But this stupid practice makes the tiger  leave the path and enter into woods. As a matter of fact there is no need for such patrols at least on the jungle routes which are open to tourist traffic. Park authorities should do patrolling in the areas which are  closed to tourist entry. They must understand that tourists come to Bandhavgarh with  fond hopes to see the tiger and in return  contribute a sizable amount of money to government exchequer. Wildlife  Parks in India  will really need more money now than before when the  budget allocation for forestry  in the recent union budget stands slashed by 17%.
Another foolish trend is to close the spots where tiger sightings are frequent. My dear Park Authorities this is no tiger conservation .Treat tourists as your another set of ears and eyes. Please understand that  tiger will remain safe so long it is seen by the tourists and not the other way round.
Bandhavgarh Park authorities will do good if instead of restraining the tourists, they concentrate on building up a sound intelligence system in and around park periphery areas.  They must also undertake frequent inspection rounds in the buffer zone areas  sanitizing them from snares , jaw traps and other killing devices used by poachers. If done so the recent poaching incident  where a 9 months old male cubs was snared and killed in the month of March at a farm house close to the buffer zone could have been prevented and similarly  poachers would have not succeeded  electrocuting the tigress BT-2 in Khitauli zone last year.


My another complaint against Bandhavgarh National Park authorities including its  leadership , the park Field Director , is against the prevailing corruption and neglect of duties on the part of park personnel. . Since I am a regular visitor to the park and notice the changes  minutely and compare them on pre -post basis, this time in 2017 , I found that the upkeep and maintenance of the rest room located at the Centre Point is horrible. That is the only place where tourists of Magdi Zone go for their tea and loo breaks. But the rest room there is terribly dirty and its beyond words to describe its filth. That is  a great inconvenience to the visitors especially the ladies who unlike men can not walk off to some secluded place and relieve in open. That is despite of the Park charging a decent amount of money from all visitors as entry fee. I came to know that while Park shows a huge sum spend on rest room's upkeep and maintenance , no such work is carried out in actual. Thus the entire expense sum is appropriated amongst the park authorities. What a corruption ! 
A proactive attitude will do good rather than working in a reactionary mode and wasting time at guarding tigers from tourist eyes. Keeping the Park friendly to tourists and maintaining its facilities will go a long way in upholding the glory of India and Bandhavgarh.
                                                               Sunset at Magadi.






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